Concrete Driveways & Sidewalks | Federal Way & Pierce County, WA

In western Washington, a concrete driveway usually fails from the bottom up: a base that held water, a slab that was too thin for the loads, or joints placed where they don’t control cracking. We build driveways, walkways, and sidewalk sections for homeowners and light commercial properties across Pierce and South King County, and most of our effort goes into what’s under the concrete.

What we build

New driveways, widenings, and parking pads, including RV and boat pads
Tear-out and replacement of cracked, settled, or heaved driveways
Walkways, garage and shop aprons, and sidewalk sections
Broom, exposed aggregate, and stamped or colored border finishes

How a driveway gets built

Site visit. We measure, note where water runs today, and look for soft spots, tree roots, and utility lines.
Excavation and base. We remove soft or organic soil and compact a crushed-rock base. The base spreads the load and keeps the slab from sitting in standing water.
Forms and reinforcement. Forms are set to grade with a slope that sheds water toward a safe outlet, never toward the garage or a neighbor. Reinforcement is sized to the loads.
Pour, finish, and joint. Control joints are planned around the layout so cracks form in straight lines where we want them.
Cure and protect. Fresh concrete needs moisture and the right temperature to reach full strength. Most driveways take foot traffic in a day or two and vehicles after about a week, depending on the weather.

Thickness, reinforcement, and finish

A typical residential driveway is about 4 inches thick. We go thicker where heavier vehicles, RVs, or work trucks will drive, and we add reinforcement based on the load and the soil underneath. For the surface, a broom finish gives dependable wet-weather traction. Exposed aggregate and stamped borders add character without giving up grip.

Sidewalks and city right-of-way

The strip between your property and the street, including the sidewalk, curb, and driveway apron, is typically public right-of-way. Work there is governed by the city, usually through a right-of-way permit, and it has to meet the city’s standards. We confirm what applies before we pour anything that touches it.

Problems we fix

Settled or cracked slabs from a washed-out or poorly compacted base
Sections lifted by tree roots
Water pooling at the garage door or running toward the house
Surface flaking from poor finishing or de-icing salts

Where we do this work

See every city we serve on our service areas page.

Planning a project for the cold months? Read our step-by-step guide to winter concrete pours.

Our work

See all of our work

Common questions

How thick should a concrete driveway be?

Most residential driveways are about 4 inches thick. If you park heavier vehicles, an RV, or a work truck, we recommend more thickness and reinforcement. We size it to what will actually drive on it.

When can I drive on a new concrete driveway?

Foot traffic is usually fine after a day or two. Vehicles typically wait about a week, and longer in cold weather because concrete gains strength more slowly when it’s cold. We’ll give you a date based on the forecast.

Do I need a permit for a new driveway?

It depends on the city and the project. Replacing a driveway on private property is often simpler than adding new paving, a wider approach, or a new curb cut, which involve right-of-way and stormwater rules. We check with your city before we start.

Can you replace just a section of my driveway?

Often, yes. We can cut along an existing joint and replace the damaged section. Whether that’s the right call depends on why it failed. If the base under the whole driveway is the problem, a partial fix won’t last.

Concrete driveways and sidewalks built to drain and built to last